THE ROAD TO LILAYA

A visit to Lilaya Elephant Nursery is a wonderful way to introduce yourself to Africa. This animal sactuary is just a 30 minute drive from Lusaka and worth every Kwacha for the taxi. Our driver was Joseph. A lovely man who shared cultural stories with us and helped us to see the sights and the people from a Zambian perspective.

We learned that the groups of families, from young to old, who walked across the fields carrying bags were there to gather food. After the crop has been removed by the farmer these folks walk the fields searching for edibles that have been left behind. We saw small children seated on the dirt picking out individual grain seeds from the ground to help feed the family. 

Every so often we would see small wooden, plywood, iron or cardboard structures that looked like a puff of wind would send them flying. These were kiosks, small businesses that sold everything from fresh produce, to car tires, to clothes, to live chickens, to hot food. Even if the seller only had a few items to show they would stilll be there. Any sale is better than none when hunger is the motivation.

 We even got a front seat view of Joseph's athletic prowess. An unfortunate quail crossed the road in front of us. Joseph hit the brakes and was out of the car in seconds. The quail took off as if his life depended on it, and it did. Joseph zigged and zagged between the grass and bush with awesome skill, and then he disappeared. A moment later our proud driver emerged carrying a very subdued bird by its legs, which were soon tied together when it was placed in the trunk of the car. Fresh quail was now on the menu for dinner for Joseph and his family. 

In Zambia, where 70% of the population is devastatingly poor, a business  can be created by anyone, selling almost anything, in order to feed the family. Putting food on the table is a luxury because, even if there is food, there is often no table to put it on. Cooking outside and sitting on the ground to eat or perform tasks, is commonplace.

The road to Lilaya is crowded with cars, vans and pickup trucks packed with riders in the open back. And there are bicycles everywhere, many of which are loaded scaringly high and wide with firewood, wordly goods, and just about anything else that could be carried on a bike. And there are walkers, many barefoot. Some with children, many children alone, and women expertly balancing impossibly large loads on their heads. 

One travels the road to Lilaya to get to the elephant nursery. But if you are open to experiences, and have a wonderful driver like Joseph, the road to Lilaya is an adventure and education in its own right.