Having spent the past two weeks at the bottom of the planet exploring the driest and coldest continent on earth I was at a bit of a loss as to what to do for a follow-up. The Antarctic magnificence is seared into my memory and with just two days left in Ushuaia I knew that nothing could compare with the experiences of the past two weeks. So rather than seeking out more dramatic experiences I decided to opt for the unusual.
Ushuaia is the southern-most city in the world. Every sign you see reads 'fin del mundo', or "end of the world". So today I joined a tour to Tierra del Fuego National Park for a day of celebrating being at the end of the world. The mood for the day was set for an end of the world experience as we left the end of the world city and travelled on gravel roads into cold weather and snow. Summer has only just ended and already the winter is peeking around the corner.
The first activity of the day was a ride, for about an hour, on the End of The World Train. This narrow gauge railway is built upon the same route as a previous railway that was used by prisoners who were incarcerated in Ushuaia. Although chilly, we at least had comfortable seats and got to enjoy the views and narration. Those long ago prisoners were less fortunate as they travelled on flat, uncovered cars on their way to collect logs and transport the lumber to the prison. We enjoyed views of green forests, the meandering Pipo River, peat bogs, and distant snow capped mountains.
After the train ride it was time to head further into the national park on the southernmost section of the Pan American Highway, National Route 3, that starts in Alaska and ends at Bahia Lapataia (Lapataia Bay) in the Beagle Channel, Argentina. So here was another end of the world experience as we travelled to the southernmost point of the road and then walked to the viewpoint where we could see a vista of mountains, water and distant islands. At one time this beautiful area was the home of the Yamana people, an indigenous society now, sadly, extinct due to illness and persecution brought upon them by soldiers, explorers, and early settlers.
Our next port of call was perhaps the most unusual end of the world experience of the day. I have a soft spot for people with a sense of humour who like to push at the edges of the system. And at Isla Redonda on the Beagle Channel there is such a person. Without permission, and against the rules, this gentleman operates the Fin Del Mundo (End of the World) Post Office. In order to operate his business and not get closed down by the authorities this self appointed postmaster has built his post office on a pier out over the water of Isla Redonda on the Beagle Channel. Inside, as the postmaster enjoys his mug of mate (Argentinians favourite tea), you can choose your postcards and write a message to your friends. Then he will stamp his own postmark on the cards and mail them for you from this special little post office.
Not long after this little adventure it was time for our tour to head back to Ushuaia. But not before we were held up following a glorious fuegian red fox trotting along the middle of the road as if it was his own. Cameras clicked as the fox dutifully posed for the passengers.
As we entered Ushuaia I decided to end my day by continuing with the end of the world theme. So off I went to the Museo del fin del Mundo, or End of the World Museum. This museum has two sites that exhibit artifacts from Ushuaia's early days and the culture of the original indigenous peoples, the Yamana and the Selknam.
So if you are ever in Ushuaia you may also find it interesting to enjoy an 'end of the world' day by exploring the town of Ushuaia, then riding the End of the World Train, travelling to the end of the Pan American Highway, visiting the End of the World Post Office, and finishing your day at the End of the World Museum.
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