It's an art, a chore, a frustration, and a game. What? I'm referring to the proces of buying goods at public markets in Zambia. Why bother? Why not just pay the asking price? After all, these folks are just trying to make a living. Well there are several reasons that I saw that would be reasons to negotiate prices enthusiastically and with determination.
Firstly, the vendors expect you to bargain. If you just pay the asking price they seem to lose respect for the buyer. And other nearby vendors are definitely listening to see what you are interested in and how firm you are in your bargaining so they can have a go at you as well. They know a soft touch when they see one. And finally, the asking prices are almost always a lot more than what the vendor is actually willing to accept. What follows are a few of the tips that I discovered worked for me in Zambia when I was buying products in the markets, and even twice when I was looking for a taxi.
- Always be prepared to be accosted by vendors who are very persistent. If you pause to look they will be more persistent. Just be firm and polite. It's OK to say "no thank you", "maybe later", "not what I'm looking for", or "I have no cash" (a polite lie is necessary sometimes).
- For the really persistent ones I often fell back on "no cash, only American Express". These vendors rarely take credit cards and never American Express.
- Providing the coast was clear of female vendors I also often said "sorry, only buying from women today". Be prepared to defend this statement though. I would tell them that the women of Zambia were more poor than the men and needed more business; a very true statement that they could not refute. Outside our hotel in Livingstone I became known as the "lady who only buys from women". And I did try to buy from women rather than men when I could. They had more products that I liked, such as fabrics, and when they heard me say my little piece to the men they were effusive in their thanks.
- Be prepared for long memories. These vendors move around and if they have seen you in another location they will remind you as if you now owe it to them to buy something.
- Have a sense of humour. Being accosted, followed, and bargained with could be stressful. Negotiate with a light heart and be ready to laugh at the process.
- Be firm. If you don't want to look or to buy make yourself clear. Walk away. And if you are negotiating be firm in your offers. A sign of wavering is like a red flag to a bull in bargaining.
- Get involved in the process and stick to your guns. Be ready to walk away if your negotiating is unsuccessful - there will be a similar or identical products not far away. Ask the vendor's price. Then react as they expect you to with visible shock at such a high price that you could never pay. This will repeat a couple of times as you try to get their price down - do not, repeat, DO NOT, make an offer yet. After a couple of the vendor's offers s/he will ask what you are prepared to pay. Here you need to be reasonable but very firm with a low offer - one that you are prepared to raise a little. The seller will express shock, tell you that they have children to feed, that you will not find quality product like theirs anywhere else, that they walked all the way from the village today and cannot sell anything, and many other versions of why your offer is very poor. But they will slowly bring their price down, reluctantly. When they have come down a reasonable (and this varies) amount you make another, higher, offer. But make it an offer that is not too close to their low one. They will say no. You prepare to walk away. They will change their price a little. You will then either repeat your offer or go up a small amount. And then stick to that amount even if you lose the sale. Do not waver. Almost always you will get what you want for the price you finally offered. And remember, if you are buying more than one item you must seriously remind them of that and insist on a further discount.
- Never feel guilty or embarrassed about bargaining in the public markets.
- Finish your negotiations and the sale on a polite and pleasant note. Enjoy the interaction because it is all a part of your cultural immersion.
- If you are accosted or followed by a vendor in a way that is intimidating or harrassing, make it clear to them that their behaviour is not acceptable. A security guard (they are everywhere in Zambia and they carry guns) or your guide can be very helpful. But also speak for yourself. I didn't have to do it often but I did fall back on two "go away" strategies a few times. One was, "stop following me because I am going over to that police officer to tell him". The other was, "stop following me. If you continue I am going to scream loudly and say I am being attacked". Both of those actions worked effectively.
And my taxi story? Well one morning my son and I had walked from the Zambian Border, over the International Bridge, and to the Zimbabwe Border. Total time was about half an hour. It was an easy walk despite the 36' heat. Later in the day, after ziplining and viewing Victoria Falls, we decided it would be nice to take a taxi back to the Zambian Border where our own favorite driver would pick us up. Well the border taxis that cruise between the two border posts are a bit like bees on a honey pot - loud, persistent and annoying. The apparent 'head guy' approached us and told us it would be $10 US to get a ride back. Tired though I was I politely informed him that we had walked over and would be happy to walk back because $10 was too much; we would pay no more than $6. Mr. Taxi was very persistent and slowly came down to $9, then $8, and I continued to say no and began walking towards Zambia. A moment later he came back to me and said "come with me". Mr Taxi led us to a battered looking cab and we got our ride back for $6 US.
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